Single Hand

Jan 15

600am Coffee

Clean up the boat and stow everything for the first solo offshore passage! The dingy is up, lines and sails prepped, and we’re off sailing by 0730. I have quiet little chat with the Struggler and ask for a safe passage. We cast off. I am escorted out of the bay by slow moving giants of the sea. Humback whales slide by the boat and send a farewell from the Baja. Two months from launching in Guaymas (down to the day) under full moon yet again and I am now traveling back to the mainland alone. Im excited yet fairly nervous about the passage. The only way for me to confront this is to stay super positive and pump myself up. I know this is possible so it should be tried. Sea Lions can be heard on the point of Los Frailes as we quickly pick up speed on the exit.

2 hours in and we are humming along at 6.5 knots. Fairly calm seas. 12 miles down. 

4 hours into the passage and Baja California Sur slips away from view. I turn and look ahead as the ship sails forward with no plans of returning. Mile by Mile we push on for the mainland.  

The entire day is spent eating pancakes, cleaning the ship, adjusting sails, napping every hour, and taking in the sites of the sea. My nerves ease slightly with every hour passed. Calming to be out here now. 17:47 I see the sunset with zero clouds. I clip in and walk around the boat looking for any troubles that might spring up in the night. Nothing is chaffing at this point. CHECK. I notice I am taking extra time and precision on each small task. Safety and re considering every step become normal. It’s almost like my brain automatically switched to survival mode as we slip into the night completely alone.

Throughout the night I continue my 20 minute naps every hour on the cockpit bench while clipped in. Keeping a close eye ahead for any lights or changes. All is perfectly fine with no boats spotted until 3am. I recall that 3-5am was the most challenging point of the passage because I was exhausted and for some reason there was lots of boat traffic at this 20-30 miles section out from Mazatlan? (Why?) Once the sun rose at 6am I made a stiff coffee and the excitement and energy flooded back in. It happened.

By 10am I slide in under sails to the Old Mazatlan Harbour. I can’t make this up but the 2 first sailboats I set eyes on here are Karma and Shine sitting on my Port and Starboard side. (Our very first boat friends in the Guaymas boatyard) What a beautiful site coming in and setting anchor between them. I recall being very happy at this moment. 

Single Handed Offshore passage brings me 166 miles in 26 hours. 

Quick nap. Completely drained but buzzing with excitement. Can’t sleep. So I unload the dingy and make it into the ghettos of Mazatlan.

A take a few photos of some street art and Im stopped by the Police right away. First hour on the mainland and they have me on the front of the cop truck asking where I live and if I have any cocaína. I show my ID and photos of my sailboat and their frowns turn into smiles! They say SAILBOAT! They put my bags back together and send me on my way. We're not in Kansas anymore toto!

Back on the boat at night, tucked under the big mountain with lighthouse perched atop protecting Mazatlan. I can see dozens of little lights walking down the mountain from the lighthouse above. It reminds me of a pilgrimage of people walking with their headlamps down from the top after sunset. So cool. Almost like fireflies or ants moving down the trails. 

Jan 17

Up for coffee and a read on the deck. Calm protected marina anchorage. Lots of boats around here look like they are abandoned and have been there for years. I make it back to shore to print some boat paperwork, laundry, and purchase some boat parts (bildge pump or the 3way switch to it have failed). Karma Heather sends me a message and asks If I’d like to join them and some new friends climbing the lighthouse for sunset. I meet up with Karma and their new crew Issac! He’s also from Washington and will spend the next month cruising the mainland Mexico with them. Hes keen to get out on the water and explore. Chill dude who enjoys being on the water and learning more about sailing. Also with Karma is Jospeh and Julia! Im greeted by them both with huge smiles. I realize then that this Julia gal had messaged me to try and do the passage here to the mainland on a boat. I was leaving a few days ahead of them but she found a boat with Captain Dougy. Such a small world. All these people are lovely. We hit it off right away. 

We make our way to the top of the mountain seeing snakes, racoons, birds, and cats everywhere. Sunset is primo. On the walk down we all make the decision we need to go to the old downtown and see the tiny streets and lit up back alleys! Ive never seen anything like this before. The tiniest little streets, bars, and cafes everywhere. A far cry from my first few hours in Mazatlan yesterday. We find a bar and enjoy a few margaritas for $70 pesos each ($5/CAN)

On the way home we grab a few 6r’s and sit on the beach and enjoy the stories of everyone’s travels form the past few months. We run into a Canadian sailor I met in Ensenada last year with Max! He is sailing with his GF and 2 hairless cats. He does in fact have the 3 of them still on the boat. It sounds like Mexico has sucked him in and has no plans on departing after 2 years here..

Jan 18

The word is out that Karma and my new pals Julia and Joseph crewing on ‘Rebecca Leah’ are leaving at first light for Isla Isabela (Bird Island)

This is the only time on the trip so far where Im second guessing my departure. I’ve been in Mazatlan for only 2 days and each time I go out to explore, it shows more of her beauty. I’d like to stay but I know the next anchorage could be the best one on the trip so I’d rather be there with friends and family. The choice was actually made late last night (On the beach drinking with them Bullshitting) to pull anchor and Struggle on behind them down to Bird Island. :)

(The thought of leaving Mazatlan behind too quickly remained in my head for days/weeks) Hmm 

I spend the day on shore trying to pack all the chores into 1 day. Water and food provisioned, try and fix my iPhone charging issue, connect with family, and update the logbook (didn’t happen sorry)

Back at the boat. Dinner and dance party. 

Jan 19

“Sometimes you leave without checking the weather”

Up to see that big yellow ball rise above Rock Island anchorage. Prep for a passage. A rushed departure from Mazatlan because of the weather window and boats moving on.

16 hour, 88 mile sail to what could be the highlight of the trip. Isla Isabel. A protected bird sanctuary in the middle of the ocean. Light to medium winds for the entire day saying an average of 5.5 knots for the passage. The winds die out for the last 3 hours so I fire up the engine and pull into the tight, rock littered, breaker smacking anchorage. Lay anchor in 30 foot of water. Its 1am and 16 hours since leaving Mazatlan. Im pooched. Slide into the fresh sheets and retire for the night.